Unbelievable this was our first wild camping of the summer. The garden, day hikes and other projects have kept us busy. All the more we jumped at the opportunity when Tobias’ sister asked us to join a three-day-hike. Exploring Switzerland’s East is always worth the trip.
The Eastern part of Switzerland bares many wonders. Especially that open Engadin valley, running through a stunning mountain landscape, specked with lakes and ponds, and dressed in the dark green shade of pine trees. It has won our hearts. For Tobias this love story began many years ago, as his family used to vacation here on occasion. Our hike was as much a trip down the memory lane for him and his sister, as it unveiled discoveries for me.
Our journey began in Pontresina where we impatiently sat and waited in the so coined “squirrel forest”. The nuts we intentionally bought to attract squirrels we either placed on tree stumps or in our mouths. I honestly kept wondering whether this was actually a thing, or simply a family tradition of my fellow hikers to gather in the woods and wait for animals to come out. On we snacked, until we gathered no squirrels would come. And so began our hike.
Alongside the railroad, but nicely hidden among pine trees, a path snaked up the valley until the Morteratsch campground. Another memory pit stop. Years ago, this is where Tobias’ family pitched tent to play by the nearby stream, river raft, and make a fire on which they roasted cheese. The latter tradition we kept alive and joked about the seeming impossibilities of rafting that little stream. Many stories were told, and we were all looking forward to the next section of the hike and to finally tackle our adventure.
Roaring down beside us the Cascata da Bernina formed a beautiful spectacle of water and rock. Moving towards its origin, our legs took us up onto another high plain, into a side valley and finally away from civilization. Once even the last of grazing cows was passed, we pitched our tents and cooked dinner. A desolate valley we had chosen for the night, without any sights to keep us away from our cozy sleeping bags any longer than needed. When the rain began, we quickly dove inside and fell asleep to the thundering sound.
Oh beautiful morning, when we stomped up the last uphill of the valley we had sheltered in. An incredible landscape revealed itself and we enjoyed a second breakfast just for the sake of the views. Among the scenery – the many valleys, ridges and peaks – we also could pinpoint where we would be hiking that day. Later on, we kept looking up at where our day had once begun, a seeming eternity ago. From the rocky desolation of the morning, we now moved through stunning meadows of pink and fluffy flowers. This valley too had its charm, and albeit we were desperate to find shade, we also soaked in the differences in landscape we encountered throughout the day.
Turning into yet another valley, those infamous Engadin woods engulfed us. A little splatter here, a louder ripple there, the enchantment of many, many a stream had us forget our tired legs. The soundtrack accompanied us all the way to Lake Saoseo, an absolutely incredible gem of a destination and where we ended our day. Blue shades of colors one couldn’t begin to explain, seduced all three of us to jump into the cold water. Say freeeeeeze! None of us lasted more than a few seconds in the icy bath and yet we kept diving in.
Rejuvenated and replenished from the lake’s sight, we retraced some of our hike to find a beautiful little camping spot. After dinner, we welcomed another cold foot bath a nearby stream offered and then dozed off happily to the sound of running water.
Our third day began packing up our tents and following some of yesterday’s journey backwards. Not that we minded witnessing those ponds and streams in the morning sun. A fairytale landscape really. A turn and new ground came in form of a seemingly never ending uphill. However, once we reached the day’s highpoint, we got rewarded with a 270° view of several valleys – Val di Campo where we just came from, another leading up to Fourcla di Livigno, the Italian border to Switzerland and finally Puschlav valley, where we were heading.
A peaceful marshland with the charming name of Aura Freida accompanied our steps for a while, until it all went downhill. Literally. From the edge of San Carlo, where we encountered first stone houses, all the way to Puschlav, every descending kilometer brought more burn to our quads. All the merrier we celebrated the train ride back home. Resting in one of its red coaches, we admire the glacier of Piz Palü. Traversing the Bernina pass height, the train traces some of three-day-hike back.
With its forests, the cow pastures and traditional walnut cake, Switzerland’s East is always worth the trip.